Spending 24 hours on the Summit of Everest sounds like it would be as fun and easy as drinking boiling water for 20 minutes with no break.  Three expert Sherpa brothers are going to attempt staying at the summit of Everest about 20 times longer than is typically allowed (for “increased probability of certain death” reasons).  The average time spent at the top is a mere 1 hour due to winds that can whip across the mountain at 100 mph and temperatures that can drop to -25F.

Usually, the time spent by mountaineers on the top of any major summit is limited.  The reality is that the air is thin, guides have strict time schedules and the longer you hangout the harder it is to get started again.  Though Sherpas have legendary status and are known to have the skills, power, knowledge, experience and humility that all mountain climbers aspire to have, 24 hours of on the summit of Everest is a monumental challenge.  It makes breaking the home run record in baseball seem about as significant as jumping over a puddle during a rain storm.

Beyond all of the other adjectives used to describe these three Sherpa, “ballsy” would be more apt.  These men will spend more than 24 hours in what is called “The Death Zone”.  The Death Zone begins at an elevation of 26,000 ft/8,000 m and extends all the way to the summit of Everest at 29,035 ft/ 8850 m.  The Death Zone requires that the human body be on supplemental oxygen tanks because the air is so thin at that altitude that you’ll die within minutes without this extra/pure oxygen.  This will be the temporary home for these Sherpa temporary in what will be the longest 24 hours of their lives.

Experienced Everest climbers, Phurba Tenzing, Pemba Dorje and Nima Gyalzen have collectively summitted Everest 16 times. Dorje has a guru-like status, as he’s set the world record for the fastest ascent of Mt. Everest at eight hours and 10 minutes.    It typically takes other climbers about four days to reach the summit from Base Camp.  The current record holder for the most time spent at the top of Everest is 21.5 hours by Chhiri.  Apparently, he didn’t sleep the entire time for fear of never waking up.  Literally.

Getting started in mountaineering for a beginner is quite a challenge.  One has to consider skills, budget, gear, fitness, possible travel and people with which to climb.  Most people come from very different angles when they begin their foray into mountaineering.  There is no right way, but this article will present how one can get started and remove a lot of the guess work.

Fitness

This will be an ongoing theme in mountaineering.  One doesn’t have to be their fittest to become a mountaineer in the early phases.  However gradually becoming fitter will enhance you and your team’s overall experience on hikes, overnight trips, 2 week expeditions, winter traverses, etc.  Keep in mind that I’m not fitness expert, but I do have solid experience.  Take what I say here at face value and not as a certified routine.  Here are the key areas on which you’ll need to focus:

1. Abdominal strengthening:  You’ll not need a 6 pack, but will need a strong core.  We like crunches, steam engines and bicycle kicks.
2. Lower back strengthening:  This will help balance the work of your abs and will help when you have a heavy pack resting on your hip bones.
3. Quads:  stairs, stairs, stairs.  By doing a large amount of stairs with no weight on your back will help tremendously.  Then graduate to adding more and more weight to your back after the first 2 weeks.  Doing 2 flights is not enough.  If you have a set of cement stairs in your neighborhood that has 100 stairs, set a goal of doing at least 10 total sets up and down each time you go.  Then after a while add more repetitions.
4. Flexibility:  Doing traditional stretching works great.  I like this fitness product from Functional Evolution.   It has helped me tremendously in flexibility, recovery and eliminating lower back and hip pain.  I highly recommend the Strap’n’Fütmit.  We also highly suggest you invest in an inexpensive foam core roller that is at least a few feet long.

Gear

This is the area that is the most fun to acquire and also the most expensive.  Begin searching and researching gear as soon as you begin your fitness routine.  Don’t buy immediately.  We suggest purchasing many things online.  Having said that, there are some thing that you absolutely should not purchase online:  pack and boots.  These two items are the most important items you’ll purchase.  Ask any serious mountaineer and they’ll tell you that their most valuable piece of gear is a proper fitting pair of boots.  Go to a proper outdoor store, not a sporting goods chain.  You will be paying for expertise and advice that you can’t get at a sporting goods chain.

Don’t worry about brands.  The North Face, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Black Diamond, Patagonia, Gregory, REI, etc…they all make great gear.  Buy for fit and budget, not for brand or color.  Overtime, you’ll develop loyalty to certain brands for certain products.  For example, I like Jansport mountaineer packs and Mountain Hardwear for wind layers and shells.

Before you begin searching or going into a store, you’ll have to identify where you ultimately want to be climbing.  Is it in California in the Sierra Mountains?  The Canadian Rockies?  The Alps?  The Andes?  Any good sales person at an outdoor shop will ask you this first before they can make good recommendations for you.

**TIP:  Go into a hardcore outdoor shop and ask a sales person who on the staff has done the most outdoor expeditions and mountaineering.  That’s the person you’ll want to deal with for every serious purchase in the future.

1. Boots:  Spend a minimum of $150 and make sure you get a boot that will work with a crampon and snowshoe (the  sales person at a good outdoor shop will know what this means).  Once you have them take a few weeks to fully break them in.  We suggest walking a few miles with them a few times per week around your neighborhood.  Do this for a few weeks.  Never use new boots for the first time on the mountain.
2. Pack:  You don’t need to spend $500 on a good pack.  All packs fit differently.  Try on at least 3 to 4 different brands.  Do not try and decide by yourself.  Let an expert look at how the pack feels and let them ask you key questions.  It will make all the difference in the world.  Don’t forget that a good fitting pack will shift all the weight in the pack to rest on your hips, not on your shoulders.
3. Dri-fit Shirt:  Make sure it’s not too tight or too loose.  I like to get these at discount stores like Target because they are extremely cheap there.
4. Down Jacket:  Wait for good deals online for these.  It will be an expensive purchase, but one you’ll be so thankful for once your taking a break or relaxing at camp and your core body temperature begins to lower after working hard all day.  Don’t worry about getting a down parka w/ a hood at this point, unless you plan on attacking serious mountains that require glacier travel and braving harsh winds and below freezing temps like Mt. Rainier, Mt. Denali, Mont Blanc, etc.
5. Sleeping bag:  Get what you pay for, but don’t spend over $300.  Used sleeping bags are good.  Understand the temperature rating when you research.  A 40F bag will be way too light for camping in 20F weather.  Having said that, don’t bother with a -5F bag if you are really hot-natured and are planning to sleep in a tent or hut.
6. Wind Layer:  This is a key piece of gear.  You can pay $300 for this if you’d like.  If you can get one on sale for $150 or cheaper, then you are in good shape.
7. Gloves / Mittens:  Mittens are warmer, but they don’t allow the dexterity needed for small zippers, buckles, laces, knots, etc.
8. Glove Liners:  These are quite useful for inside the tent or cooking outside if it’s not bitter cold.
9. Soft shell / Fleece: This is great for wearing under your wind layer.  Soft shells can get expensive, but they are great if you have the budget.  Otherwise, you can do what some climbers do and go to Good Will and grab an $8 fleece.
10. Hat:  As dorky as they look sometimes, these are key for sunny or exposed days on the mountain.  Get something that will cover your ears.  Skin cancer at high altitude is no joke.
11. Beanie / Skull Cap:  You may not need this as you are climbing, unless you are in extreme conditions.  These are essential for breaks, setting-up camp and sleeping if it’s cold.
12. Sunglasses:  If you are going to purchase new sunglasses, we suggest you get what is called “glacier glasses”.  If you don’t have the need or budget to purchase glacier glasses, then keep on wearing what you have.
13. Stove:  I like JetBoil stoves because they are light, small and boil your water quickly.

Locations

Most of the activity in the USA is on the west side of the country.  The Rockies have climbing with easy and extremely challenging peaks.  The Cascade range in Washington is popular.  One of the hotbeds, however, are the Sierra Mountains.  They are the home to Yosemite National Park.

Regardless of how high or where you begin climbing, ensure that you have a map and know how to read it.  Additionally, leave your trip plan (even if it’s just a day hike) with somebody at home.  We suggest a co-worker or family member.  All you need to include is:  where, when, with who, what time and what route.  Leave a copy in your car also.

There is so much more to learn and a great deal of it will be learned by research, mistakes and tips from more experienced climbers.  There are many books you can read, but this comes highly suggested by the mountaineering community:  Freedom of the Hills.

Send me questions or stories about epic climbs you’ve done.  What’s next on your list?